Scandinavia — Act II
Transformations in Oslo.
We heard the bell ding for curtain call as the train crossed the border into Norway…
It was a five hour trip from Stockholm to Oslo, passing lakes, valleys, and small villages. After a week away from work and responsibilities, we were starting to feel cool as cucumbers. The train was such a lovely transition between countries and onto the next stage of this trip. I really did plan this holiday in a three-part Shakespearean arc. Scott received little notes each morning that included a themed title for the day, some fun facts, and a general plan—making sure to leave lots of space for spontaneous wandering.
The Oslo Opera House greeted us like an Olympic god as we stepped off the train and onto the waterfront. Built in 2007 to resemble an iceberg—which apparently looks even more striking beneath winter snow—it was such a contrast to Stockholm. Oslo was slick, modern, and a lot more edgy. The energy felt more masculine and almost a bit sultry with its brooding weather. Just as planned, this city had a whole different role to play.
After a week of slowing down, and with Scott’s final days in his thirties wrapping up, we found ourselves talking about which habits were worth carrying forward and which ways of living had stopped serving us. Milestone birthdays have a way of making you take inventory—not just of the years behind you, but of the person you're actively becoming.
Open Air Living
Something we were curious about during our time in Oslo was what the Norwegians call: “friluftsliv”. It roughly translates to "open-air living," but it's more of a philosophy than a dictionary definition. It's the idea that time spent outdoors isn't a luxury reserved for weekends or holidays—but an essential part of life.
This was apparent almost immediately. If Stockholm’s social life revolved around cafés, Oslo’s seemed to revolve around green spaces. We were so impressed by the city’s parks and gardens. Places like Vigeland Sculpture Park and the Botanical Garden are free to the public, making it easier for people to spend time in nature. I would have happily paid admission to enter both of these places. They were beautifully maintained and safe spaces to come alone or with a group. It made me happy to see so many people with baby strollers or walking and chatting with friends—witnessing the natural unhurried flow of their days.
We did a lot of wandering and exploring here, through leafy streets and peaceful cemeteries. Even when the rain came out of nowhere and we felt unsure at first, a lady in a local shop said to us: “enjoy the rain!”. We both looked at each other and said, I don’t know if anybody has ever said that without being sarcastic before. People are constantly complaining about the weather at home. One of those sparkly moments when it feels like the universe is winking at you.
Selected Read + Fave Bookstore:
Repetition by Vigdis Hjorth (2026). Translated from Norwegian by Charlotte Barslund.
You know the drill, a Norwegian-written novel was necessary for Act Two. This was my second read by Hjorth, and I already have plans for more. The novel follows a writer looking back on the year she turned sixteen—a year marked by first romances, teenage rebellion, anxious parents, and a series of events that only begin to make sense decades later.
Oslo felt like the perfect place to sit with Hjorth’s style of writing—intelligent, honest, and deeply interested in human behaviour. Repetition explores memory, family dynamics, and the uncomfortable gap between what we experience in the moment and what we come to understand years later. The kind of novel that trusts the reader to wrestle with difficult questions rather than providing neat conclusions upfront. It was dark and brilliant, I highly recommend.
Shoutout to my favourite bookstore in Oslo: Prismatic Pages, where I found this and other gems.
Art Exhibitions
My personal measure of whether an art gallery is special: I audibly gasp or quietly tear up. Well, the Munch Museum did both—on multiple floors.
I’m going to be honest, I wasn’t all that excited for this gallery. I knew The Scream and, without doing much research beforehand, assumed much of Edvard Munch’s work would be similarly dark and emotionally tangled. Thankfully, this fourteen-floor temple of art still ended up on our itinerary, and it was one of the best surprises of the trip.
Starting on the first floor where guest exhibits are held, we were so lucky to visit while Paula Rego: Dance Among Thorns was on. I loved seeing her work alongside Munch’s and noticing the visual conversation between them. I just recently learned about The Dance, so walking into this room—and discovering its connection to Munch— was really meaningful for me.
In addition to her paintings, there were a few textile art pieces included in the show that really impressed me. I didn’t want to leave the enormous 21 foot tapestry constructed of wool, silk, cotton, and various other fabrics. It told the story of a 1578 battle in Morocco, and every little section held such beauty. I had my face up so close to the fabric, wildly impressed and inspired by her textile placements and dreaming of attempting something like this one day.
And on the remaining 13 floors… Edvard Munch (1863 - 1944). Born in Norway, this man created and left in his will over 26,000 works to the city of Oslo—making this museum the extraordinary experience that it is today.
The more time I spent with his work, the more I realized how unfairly I’d reduced him to The Scream. His paintings are vibrant and emotionally honest. Love appears in equal parts tenderness and pain. Joy and grief often exist in the same frame. Munch seemed to paint what people were feeling more than what they may have actually looked like. The two works above were among my favourites.
Waiting my turn to stand beside The Scream, I understood it differently. As someone who knows anxiety all too well, I no longer saw it as an exaggeration, but as an honest portrait of a feeling that's difficult to explain. Seeing it within the context of Munch's life's work made it feel less like the famous painting we’ve all seen in books and more like a part of the bigger story.
I hope this little glimpse into the world of Munch encourages at least one person to see him as so much more than the artist behind The Scream.
And last but not least, nothing prepared me for The Sun. This monumental painting filled my entire field of vision—radiating from across the room a presence that simply cannot be captured by my iPhone 12.
Felt this one in my heart
The Floating Sauna
When in Norway, do as the Norwegians do. We knew a sauna and cold plunge needed to make the itinerary, but we didn’t realize just how awesome it would be. While Finland may be the country most associated with sauna culture, Norway has its own centuries-old tradition of alternating between sauna and cold water—a ritual now known as contrast therapy. Oslo's floating saunas have become one of the city's most iconic ways to experience it.
Floating in the inner harbour with front-row views of Oslo's Opera House, Munch Museum, and striking waterfront architecture, we chatted with both fellow travellers and local regulars before climbing onto the roof of our wood-fired sauna and jumping into the fjord below.
We booked in with KOK Sauna and had a really good experience. In fact, since coming home we’ve attempted to recreate the circuit by overheating in our car (blasting the heat when it’s already 27°C outside), and then promptly jumping into the lake.
Scott calls this the poor man’s plunge! It does the trick.
A Few Foodie Favourites
We rarely eat out at home, so each time we tried a new restaurant on this trip felt really special. There was so much to try and enjoy in Oslo. Here are a few quick highlights:
Tim Wendelboe Coffee Roasters was pretty elite. The espresso was too sophisticated for me (I’m mostly a matcha girl), but Scott had what can only be described as a near spiritual experience. I guess that’s why they’re rated as the #2 coffee shop in the world.
We ducked into Koie Ramen to escape a downpour and ended up having the perfect cosy dinner we were craving.
I made us a reso at Alex Sushi weeks prior. We sat around the sushi bar and ordered all sorts of little à la carte delights. The flavour combos were unmatched and it was easily some of the best quality sushi we’ve ever had.
Joe & The Juice was everywhere, so I had to try the hype. We ended up getting freshly pressed juices and smoothies here and again in Denmark. A nice balance to our twice daily pastry routine.
Worth the Suitcase Space
So, the sun rose at 3:50AM each day. Thankfully this silk eye mask worked like a charm!
Left on Friday makes the only bikini I actually feel comfortable and confident in. Their top shelf for large busts, and hi hi bottoms hold all the curves in just the right places. I wear the colour ‘punch’.
My makeup was super minimal: brow gel, highlighter, and lip gloss.
These little magnetic capsules were great for vitamins, jewelry, and small bits that disappear in toiletry bags.
The halfway mark of the trip called for a load of laundry. These detergent sheets pack flat, weigh nothing, and made things simple.
We started getting really into nightly sheet masks. The vacation versions of us were super chill and cool, I would like to channel these people more.
Curtain Fall
Time sure is good to you when you’re on holiday. Oslo was the shortest stay of our Scandinavian trio, only being four days, but it sure felt longer. By the time we packed our bags for Copenhagen, we could not believe we still had an entire week ahead of us.
Oslo reminded us of the little moments that slowly collect over time and lead to a great life. Like embracing the weather instead of waiting for it to improve, not judging the book (or art) by its cover, and jumping into the water even though it messes up your hair. The city seemed to make those choices become easy, weaving fresh air, art, movement, and community into the regular routine.
As the curtain fell on Act Two, we left with more than the really good vintage blazer I scored. We had fresh perspectives and the feeling that transformations were slowly taking shape.
x Lauren
(After a brief intermission, Act III will continue in Denmark.)
