Scandinavia — Act I
Arrival in Stockholm.
The curtain rose somewhere over the Baltic Sea…
We departed the plane and made our way to Stockholm—a city made up of 14 islands. As someone who grew up on an island, there is something very comforting in knowing water is always just around the corner. Before we even put our bags down, there was a sense of softness, an exhale. This was the right place to be. My husband selected Sweden for the first stop on his birthday trip, a country we’ve long admired for its intellectual culture, intentional way of living, and high levels of happiness.
We had a lot to learn and absorb in the coming weeks. We were ready.
The sun rose at 4:15am each day in Sodermälm—the neighbourhood we chose to stay in for the week. Our Airbnb was in a five story walk up with high ceilings and a stunning view. A Swedish couple’s real home. The wood floors creaked, we could hear children playing in the park, and cutlery clinked on plates at the cafés below. As we unpacked our clothes into the wooden armoire, our shoulders relaxed at the realization that our trip had finally begun.
Beauty, Beauty Everywhere
With the stage now set, our first performance was a grand one. I love theatres, so I had to find an excuse to sit in a red velvet seat at the Royal Swedish Opera House. Completed in 1898 in a neo-classical style, we were overwhelmed with the detail and beauty this room displayed. We sat back in wonder as the Royal Swedish Ballet performed Gustavia.
In addition to the dancing, a live orchestra played through the entire 2.5 hour show and added so much to the experience. Little did we know, our tickets also granted us access to Stockholm’s finest people watching. Women in embroidered Toteme sets, beautiful handbags, and so many good blazers. It was an evening we won’t soon forget.
After the show, we stepped back out into the warm evening. Right on cue for the next show to begin… the setting sun.
Selected Read + Fave Bookstore:
Fair Play by Tove Jansson (1989). Translated from Swedish by Thomas Teal.
Of course I wanted to read a Swedish novel during the first act of our trip. I selected this beautiful novella by the creator of Moomin—literary fiction but said to reflect her personal life—which is told through a series of interconnected episodes. It follows two aging artists who have spent decades building a life together. Their separate apartments share a large open attic space that they’ve turned into a creative studio. Each day they work side-by-side, sharing a life while also keeping their own. Though it isn’t romantic in the Hollywood sense, this thoughtful and understated story is a look at companionship, creative work, and the freedom to remain independent within a long-term relationship. In a city that values community, meaningful work, and the simple rhythms of everyday life, this was a lovely pairing for Stockholm.
Special thanks to my favourite bookstore in Stockholm: Nord Books, where I found this and other gems.
Art Exhibitions:
Filled with incredible work, the Moderna Museet was an afternoon well spent. I loved the textile art collection of Anna Casparsson. Folding screens, piano covers, pillows, and tablecloths, she created decorative pieces to display in the home with whimsical scenes and folk tale elements. The castle above reminds me of the Pink Palace in Honolulu—which is near and dear to my heart.
Stumbling across Lee Miller’s famous photograph in Hitler’s bathtub and seeing a life-sized work by Salvador Dalí were two epic surprises. And while I had hoped to see Louise Bourgeois’ piece, it wasn’t on display during our visit.
We also spent an evening at the Fotografiska. One of Sweden’s leading contemporary photographers, Lotta Antonsson, had a beautiful and slightly unsettling installation. Fluid female forms were adorned with shells and amethysts to both disrupt and embellish the viewer’s experience of beauty. I was drawn to her black-and-white film and loved her use of objects.
Also a treat was the collection from Martin Parr. Featuring over 400 vibrant images from his 50-year-long career. Sharp, witty, and tender, they were a celebration of human life in the strange little moments that make us unique.
Day Trip: Saltsjöbaden
It’s been referred to as the “Swedish Hamptons” and it, with its clay tennis courts and grand seaside hotels, could easily become the setting for a Wes Anderson film. This small coastal town was surprisingly quiet and understated—quickly becoming one of our favourite memories from the trip.
Our decision to spend the day in Saltsjöbaden centred around the Vår Gård Hotel. With day passes to their sauna, private dock, and relaxation rooms, we spent a good portion of the afternoon unwinding in this idyllic setting before a great meal at their farm-to-table restaurant.
Later, as we walked through the neighbourhood, we got an up-close look at some of the area’s stunning homes—many of them reminiscent of the house in Sentimental Value. We couldn’t help but imagine ourselves out in the yard, having the neighbours over for wine, and walking to the sea for a daily dip. The peaceful energy had us browsing local real estate listings, you know—just in case that lottery win comes through.
A Few Foodie Favourites
Stockholm's food scene was great. Unfussy and simple—focusing on good ingredients, beautiful settings, and connection. One of our biggest takeaways came from witnessing how effortlessly social everyone seemed to be. Without pressure or perfection, time spent together was second nature. Never a question of when, just simply where. Here’s a few spots we really enjoyed:
Folii Wine Bar: bread and whipped butter, anchovies with lemon, and great wine. We went late evening and stayed till closing—it was one of my favourite nights.
Meatballs for the People: a classic home cooked Swedish meal. Nothing fancy, just simple comfort food. With 13 different meat options, Scott was happy trying the reindeer.
Café Pascal: the best cardamom buns (aka kardemummabullar) and my favourite breakfast. We quickly became regulars.
Rosendals Garden: most ideal setting for a picnic in the park. Our afternoon here was the best. We both took naps under a tree while dozens of other families did the same.
Every single grocery store, Caramella, and Lakrids: for my daily candy fix! Sweden is the candy capitol of the world for good reason and I did not miss out on the opportunity.
Worth the Suitcase Space
Honestly, I’m so glad we only took carry-on luggage. It took serious skill to prioritize, but it made hopping between cities infinitely easier. The following eight items earned their place in my case:
Kyoto Carpenter Pants were stylish enough for museums and dinner, yet comfortable enough for long travel days.
Lightweight and chic, this Scandinavian blue oversized oxford shirt was equally versatile.
With zero space to pack a blow dryer, Dae Styling Cream was my entire hair routine.
My skin gets dry with travel but this serum concealer passed the test and kept a fresh minimal look.
Small victories go a long way when you’re halfway across the world. I didn’t have to charge my toothbrush once during the trip.
My favourite electrolyte packets for days with long flights or 20k+ steps!
Polarized sunglasses were essential since Scandinavian daylight is endless in the summer (love these affordable ones).
I always pack a cosy washcloth incase the Airbnbs don’t supply.
Curtain Fall
Stockholm was alive without being loud. Buzzing but not chaotic. What felt extraordinary to us appeared to be more routine for them. A building as beautiful as the Opera House wasn’t reserved for an annual visit, it was written on the calendar for a Tuesday night.
Beauty and enjoyment were never destinations we had to work towards or earn, they were part of the infrastructure and offered in abundance.
People truly looked happier. Women especially seemed more relaxed and satisfied, it was beautiful and inspiring to witness.
As the curtain began to fall on Act One, we felt the rare feeling of being present. Aside from sending a few photos to our families, we were mostly offline and immersed in our new surroundings. Somewhere between the café culture and late evening sunsets, we felt ourselves settling back into our bodies.
Time slowed down—our week in Sweden easily felt like two.
x Lauren
(After a brief intermission, Act II will continue in Norway.)
