Scandinavia — Act III
Good old-fashioned fun in Copenhagen.
As the flight from Oslo to Copenhagen carried us through fluffy white clouds, the intermission bell called us back to the theatre for our third and final act.
At this point in the trip, we’d grounded, we’d grown, and we were feeling pretty groovy. Copenhagen was intentionally planned as the last stop on our holiday because we knew we would be craving some good old-fashioned fun by the time we arrived. We were correct.
If you’ve been following along these past few weeks, thank you so much. If you’re new here, the story begins with Act I (Stockholm) and continues with Act II (Oslo)—a Shakespearean arc through the three countries of Scandinavia.
The best way I can describe Copenhagen is simply a big playground for adults. That is, adults who love art, design, food, fashion, architecture, cheerful colours, riding bikes, climbing towers, and ferris wheels. I’ve wanted to visit Copenhagen for so long and, truly, it exceeded every expectation. The smiles were ear-to-ear, the jaws were dropping low, and for one glorious week, our only responsibility was deciding what kind of fun to have next.
Hej Design Week!
As if this city wasn’t cool enough, we happened to arrive just as Copenhagen’s Design Week was underway—an annual festival where showrooms, studios, and brands throw open their doors to celebrate all things design. Not planned, just a wonderful blessing from the furniture gods above. This meant I got to visit the flagship stores of some of my favourite brands, while also wandering through free exhibitions and gaining access to some of the coolest event spaces around the city.
Basically Christmas morning for design lovers.
Walking into Helle Mardahl’s studio felt like stepping inside the world’s most beautiful candy shop filled from floor to ceiling with goodies. As they say…if I ever won the lottery, there would be signs.
Tekla was a total dream. I went to both their showroom and their design exhibition—which was all about quilting. You may remember I finished my very first quilt just a couple months ago, so this felt kismet. Organic textiles, historic rooms, a live string quartet, and free gifts. Tekla had it all. I left with a quilted pouch filled with lavender, a cucumber water, and a small portion of my husband’s suitcase now dedicated to bringing home a box of face cloths...bless that man.
Hay House was a must—obviously. I picked up a few treasures, although I briefly considered filling an entire shipping container instead. The exhibition itself was lovely, but honestly, the people watching was even better. We’re talking fashion-week-level street style where everyone looked like they’d just stepped out of a Scandinavian design campaign. I felt wildly underdressed, but so grateful to be a part of the action.
All this and I hadn’t even been to the galleries or museums yet…
Where the Art Lives
Buckle up, baby. I’m going to try my best to reign it in with this section, but let’s just say there was A LOT to see. And yes, all of it was worth writing home about.
A short train ride along the Danish coastline took us north to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art for a lovely day trip. The museum effortlessly blurs the line between architecture, landscape, and art. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the forest and sea, sculptures spill out onto the lawns, and every turn reveals another corner to stop and simply take it all in.
It never felt like we were walking from one gallery room to the next—it felt like the property was one beautifully choreographed experience.
One of our favourite installations was Yayoi Kusama's Gleaming Lights of the Souls. From the outside, it looks like nothing more than a white box. Step inside though, and you're instantly transported to another dimension. The tiny mirrored room stretches into infinity, surrounding you with endless reflections of coloured lights—equal parts playful and mysterious.
As always, I found myself drawn to works depicting the female form. Lucian Freud’s Girl in Bed felt really intimate, while Henri Laurens’ towering bronze figure stood with confidence. Two completely different women, yet both impossible to walk past without stopping to admire.
Even though we’ve barely scratched the surface of this incredible museum…I’ll just leave a few more of my favourites before we move on. Including a sewing machine print that would looks so cool in my office, a snowman in the middle of the forest, and a cheeky reminder of what galleries looked like in 2022.
I saved our visit to the Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket for an afternoon when we had lots of time to leisurely wander. I knew it was going to be a good one, and oh was it ever.
If Louisiana was all fresh sea air and contemporary creativity, the Glyptoteket was its regal and contemplative opposite. Originally designed as a daylight museum, it was filled with marble sculptures, towering palms, and soft natural light—easily one of the most beautiful atriums I’ve ever seen.
Housing thousands of years of history, we saw everything from real mummified bodies in the basement to masterpieces by Monet, Van Gogh, Cèzanne, and Renoir. It managed to feel both enormous and perfectly peaceful at the same time. If I lived here, I would buy an annual pass and visit often—enjoying lunch at the café with friends, or sitting and writing. I really did not want to leave.
Edgar Degas’ Little Dancer Aged Fourteen was a particularly special moment for me. I’ve probably watched this video about recreating her tiny ballet skirt ten times, and it never gets old. Standing in front of the original sculpture was emotional for sure.
Outside, Rodin’s The Thinker sat unobtrusively amongst the elements—a little gift for anyone passing by to admire, no museum ticket required. It perfectly captured what I loved most about Copenhagen: taking time for beauty is time well spent.
Selected Read + Fave Bookstore:
Waist Deep by Linea Maja Ernst (2026). Translated from Danish by Nicolette Sherilyn Hellberg.
Another country, another translated novel. This one was the perfect companion for Copenhagen as the days inched closer to midsummer. Set over one idyllic week, a group of university friends reunite at a lakeside cabin—sharing meals, taking long swims, and sunbathing into the long Danish evenings. It made me want to stretch out our holiday and find a little cottage by the water.
What they didn’t plan for was navigating old crushes, changing identities, and the strange realization that adulthood rarely looks the way we imagined it would. Ernst’s writing reminded me of Sally Rooney in the way she allows conversations and relationships to unfold with honesty and awkwardness. There is something quirky and deeply human about both their characters that makes them feel genuine and flawed.
Shoutout to my favourite bookstore in Copenhagen: SUPeR Books, where I found this and other gems.
A Few Foodie Favourites
The food in Copenhagen was… unmatched. I made us a few reservations weeks in advance for the places we didn’t want to miss, and we had no problem finding several more gems along the way. Gosh I miss eating here.
Mad & Kaffe: Starting with birthday brunch, we had to visit this café for the ultimate pick-and-mix breakfast. Honestly, café culture in Copenhagen was on another level. We had 12 small dishes between the two of us, a nice balance of sweet and savoury, and everything was incredible. They even put celebratory Danish flags on the table for Scott’s birthday. 🇩🇰
Andersen & Maillard: I love a natural yogurt with house-made granola, paired with a simple egg and sourdough bread. Maybe some fruit or a croissant—but no towering stacks of waffles drowning in syrup or massive plates of potatoes covered in mystery sauces. Just simple and classy.
Danish breakfasts really made me feel seen.
Hart Bageri: Our Airbnb was right around the corner from one of their locations, so we quickly became frequent flyers. Daily matcha lattes, rustic sourdough loaves, the cutest branding, and darn good pastries.
Høst: The greatest dining experience we’ve ever had. As I mentioned earlier, we don’t eat out a lot at home. So for Scott’s 40th birthday dinner, we went large. A seven course meal with wine pairings, caviar, and all sorts of culinary surprises. The best part about it was how relaxed and welcoming the place was. Up for a Michelin star, but down to earth and approachable. Would absolutely return and highly recommend to anyone visiting the city.
Bæst: I love pizza. Specifically, I love Napoleon-style pizza—and as someone who has travelled all over Italy, I am nervous to say this might have been the best pizza I’ve ever eaten. Sigh…
The World’s Most Liveable City
Copenhagen has repeatedly been crowned with the title of world’s most liveable city. After a week of biking, walking, and riding the metro, I think I have a better understanding as to why that is. The city seems to be designed around a simple question: How can we make life both practical and enjoyable?
We’d originally booked an architectural bike tour to learn more about this, but when it was cancelled last minute, I refused to let months of planning go to waste. So I copied all the stops from the tour into Google Maps, searched up fun facts along the way, and took us on a self-guided adventure.
The Black Diamond Library was our first reminder that public buildings don't have to be beige to be functional. Its glossy black granite exterior reflects the harbour like a mirror and transforms with the light throughout the day. Inside was just as gorgeous and full of students studying, people meeting for coffee, and small exhibitions. Easily one of my favourite stops, it felt less like a stuffy library and more like the city's living room.
A little further along we came to the student dormitory known as Tietgenkollegiet. Apparently architects travel far and wide to see this building, and standing beneath it, we understood why. The enormous circular structure reminded us of the Roman Colosseum—supporting community living while preserving individual privacy. Just brilliant.
No matter how many postcards or images you’ve seen of Nyhavn, nothing captures the enchanting charm of walking down this canal in person. Lined with 17th-century townhouses and bustling cafés, I had to go back several times throughout the week just for another little glimpse.
Scott was determined to find the most epic view of the city—so up the tallest church spire we went! The Church of Our Saviour let us climb all the way to the rickety top and overlook the gorgeous neighbourhood of Christianshavn below. I have to admit, it was pretty cool.
More than anything, the cycling infrastructure really impressed us. The Bicycle Snake (Cykelslangen) wasn't just a clever bridge to solve traffic issues—it was pure joy. Painted orange like a clay tennis court, we went pedalling down this yellow brick road with big grins and great views of the Kactus Towers—yes, apartments that look like giant succulents.
Just another example of how this city felt like a big playground for adults.
Tivoli Gardens had us giggling on swings, snuggling on park benches, and listening to a woman play the piano as the sky turned pink. What better way to end our grand city tour than the amusement park from 1843 that inspired Walt Disney to make Disneyland.
At the end of the day, there wasn't one building that impressed us most—it was the philosophy behind all of them that captured us. Copenhagen seems to believe that life should be practical, but not at the expense of beauty and enjoyment. From libraries and bridges to amusement parks and churches, practicality and playfulness happily coexisted.
Worth the Suitcase Space
Feeling all girly and flirty, this little duo made my daily look feel extra special: balm blush (in Beverly Hills) + sheer eyeshadow (in Glacé).
Compression packing cubes were truly the only way we made it home without buying extra luggage. So grateful to my lovely mother-in-law for gifting me these before the trip!
This peppermint roller is my secret weapon for summer. A quick dab on my temples and the back of my neck keeps me from overheating in warm weather or overcrowded areas.
Biggest shopping regret? Walking away from these Salomons in a consignment store, only to return an hour later and find they’d been sold. Had to treat myself to a new pair of Billi Bi sandals to recover… it worked.
Very tempted by this beautiful and fun dress.
And finally… yes, I packed a couple HAY crates home. Coulda, woulda, shoulda brought more.
Curtain Fall
As we started to pack our bags for the last time, I can’t believe I didn’t cry. The past two times I'd been to Europe, there had been plenty of tears when it came time to leave. But this trip felt full. Wholeheartedly complete. Of course I would have loved to stay longer, but I was excited to get back and put my inspiration to use. To bring more colour and joy into our furnishings at home, to be more confident and bold with my wardrobe, and to remember to have more fun!
Denmark made good design feel like a public service. As though quality craftsmanship and intentional colour schemes belonged to everyone. It left me wishing we demanded a little more than grey and “good enough” back home. The price of admission to this city wasn’t cheap, but boy-oh-boy was it worth it.
As every good performance eventually must, ours was finally drawing to a close. By the end of the week we'd seen furniture that looked like sculpture, eaten some of the best meals we can remember, and laughed like children as we biked across bridges with our hands in the air. Creativity ran through every street, café, and outfit we walked past. Even my most curated Pinterest boards have nothing on a single day spent wandering Copenhagen. This city filled our cups so full it had to send us home with takeout boxes for all the leftovers.
A standing ovation was well deserved as the red velvet curtain touched the stage one final time. I know in my heart there will be an encore to this holiday, and I will visit Scandinavia again. And if I’m really lucky in this lifetime, again after that.
x Lauren
Are you saying that you filled the Hay crates with purchases and shipped them home? How did you do that? We have an upcoming trip where I know we'll need to ship things that won't fit in our luggage, but I've never done that before.
Hello Lauren, Your photos and descriptions have me craving a trip to Copenhagen. I have not been up to date with your newletter but I have so enjoyed catching up with this edition. I am inspired to share how artful, creative and curated your posts are. Dare I say that Copenhagen and you share the same vibrancy and sense of style!